Vyšehrad

What it is

The other castle. Vyšehrad is a fortified rock rising straight from the right bank south of the centre — in legend the seat of Princess Libuše, who prophesied Prague's glory, and of the first Přemyslid dynasty; in evidence, a stronghold from the tenth century, later wrapped in vast Baroque brick fortifications. The nineteenth century made it the sacred hill of the Czech national revival, which is exactly how it still feels.

What is here

The Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, whose neo-Gothic twin spires mark the southern skyline of the river. Beside it, the Vyšehrad Cemetery with the Slavín tomb — the national pantheon where Dvořák, Smetana, Mucha and Karel Čapek lie, and a genuinely beautiful place rather than a morbid one. The Rotunda of St Martin, from the eleventh century, is the oldest surviving rotunda in Prague. The ramparts give a full circuit of views — up the river to the Castle, across to Petřín — and the casemates inside the walls can be visited. Below the rock, on the streets toward the river, stands Prague's famous cluster of Cubist houses, and U Kroka, one of the city's best-loved traditional kitchens.

What it is like

A park in the sky that happens to contain a millennium of national memory. Praguers come here to walk dogs, run the walls, picnic under the apple trees and take wedding photos; tour groups mostly do not come at all, which after the Castle feels like a different city. There is almost no commerce on the hill — a couple of cafés and a seasonal beer garden — and evenings are silent.

Practical

Metro line C to Vyšehrad station, then a flat ten-minute walk past the Congress Centre; or a tram to Výtoň below and a short climb. The fortress grounds are free and open daily; only the individual sights charge. Pair it with Náplavka — the embankment walk back to the centre along the river is the best exit. As a base it is very quiet and very residential, with few places to stay; think of it as a half-day, not an address.